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The techniques that take you beyond knit and purl: shaping, knitting in the round, joining and finishing. One guide per technique.
The German twisted cast on (Old Norwegian) is a long-tail cast on with an extra twist that makes the edge stretchy. Step by step, for cuffs and brims.
A stretchy cast on lets cuffs, brims and necklines stretch and spring back. Compare the German twisted and Italian cast ons and pick the right one.
The i-cord bind off knits a small rounded cord along the edge as you bind off. Step by step, how to finish the cord and how to avoid a ladder.
Stretchy bind off with Jeny's method (JSSBO): a yarn over before each stitch lets the edge stretch and spring back. Step by step, for knit and purl stitches.
The long-tail cast on is the standard way to start: firm, slightly stretchy and quick. How to work it and how long to make the tail.
Rib stitch alternates columns of knit and purl stitches, so the fabric stretches. How to knit 1×1 and 2×2 rib flat and in the round, with stitch counts.
Mattress stitch joins two knitted pieces edge to edge with a seam that does not show. How to find the bars and sew it from the right side, step by step.
Kitchener stitch (grafting) joins two sets of live stitches so the join does not show. Used on sock toes. The setup, the four repeating steps and the tension.
The cable cast on in knitting gives a firm, neat edge and is the usual way to add stitches mid-row, for example at buttonholes and underarms. Step by step.
The tubular bind off (Italian bind off) closes 1×1 rib with a tapestry needle for a rounded, stretchy edge. Step by step, with the foundation rows.
The backwards loop cast on is the quickest way to add stitches mid-row: underarms, buttonholes, glove fingers. How to work it, and when not to use it.
Twisted rib knitting: k1tbl, p1 in the round, with ptbl on wrong-side rows when you knit flat. The two variants, and why twisted rib stretches less.
Ptbl means purl through the back loop. It twists a purl stitch and is used in twisted rib worked flat. How to work it, with tips for Continental knitting.
The Italian cast on (tubular cast on) gives 1×1 rib a rounded, stretchy edge with no visible cast-on row. Step by step, with the foundation rows.
Ktbl means knit through the back loop. It twists the stitch and is used in twisted rib. How to knit it, and why your stitches may get twisted by accident.
Kfb (knit front and back) is the easiest knitting increase: knit into the front and back of the same stitch to make two from one. Steps, uses and mistakes.
German short rows shape knitting with a simple "double stitch" instead of wraps. Learn the method step by step, how to work the DS later, and why knitters prefer it.
SSK (slip, slip, knit) turns two stitches into one with a left lean. Learn it step by step, why the slips must be knitwise, and when to use it instead of k2tog.
K2tog (knit two together) is the simplest knitting decrease: knit two stitches as one, leaning right. Learn it step by step and when to pair it with ssk.
M1L and M1R are nearly invisible mirrored increases made from the bar between stitches. Learn both step by step, and how to avoid the hole that ruins them.
An i-cord is a small knitted tube made on two double-pointed needles: knit, slide, do not turn. Learn the technique and its uses, from drawstrings to edgings.
Magic loop lets you knit socks, sleeves and mittens in the round on one long circular needle. The setup, the working sequence, and how to stop ladders at the loop points.
Blocking is washing and shaping your finished knitting so the stitches even out and the piece takes its final size. When to wet block, steam or spray, step by step.
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