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How to bind off (cast off)

Binding off secures your stitches so your knitting will not unravel. Learn the standard bind off step by step, plus when to use a stretchy bind off instead.

Julia WallinBy Julia WallinKnyt Co-founder and editor
Updated 4 min read

Binding off, called "casting off" in the UK, is how you finish a piece of knitting. It secures the live stitches so they cannot unravel when the work leaves the needle. The standard method is quick and works for almost everything. This guide walks through it step by step and shows when to choose a stretchier bind off instead.

US vs UK: "bind off" (US) and "cast off" (UK) are the same thing.

The standard (basic) bind off

You work across the row, lifting one stitch over the next:

  1. Knit the first two stitches as normal, so they are on your right needle.
  2. Insert the left needle into the first stitch you knitted (the one further to the right).
  3. Lift that first stitch up and over the second stitch and off the needle. One stitch remains on the right needle. You have bound off one stitch.
  4. Knit one more stitch. You now have two stitches on the right needle again.
  5. Repeat steps 2 to 4 across the row.
  6. When one stitch remains, cut the yarn leaving a 15 cm (6 in) tail, pull it through the last loop, and tighten. Weave in the end with a tapestry needle.


Keep it loose. The most common bind-off mistake is working too tightly, which puckers the edge. Bind off at a relaxed tension, or use a needle one size larger for the bind-off row.

When the standard bind off is not enough

The standard bind off produces a firm, tidy edge with limited stretch. That is right for shoulders, bag edges, blanket ends and seams. It is too tight for anything that has to stretch over a body part, such as the top of a toe-up sock, a hat brim, or the neckline of a top-down jumper. A firm edge there will either not go over, or a strand will snap when forced.

The fix is to choose a different bind-off method for that edge. The methods below cover nearly every situation.

Other ways to bind off (and when to use each)

Every method secures the stitches. They differ in stretch, look and purpose. Quick reference first, then each in brief:

Method Stretch Best for
Standard Low Shoulders, blankets, seamed edges
Stretchy (e.g. Jeny's) Very high Sock cuffs, hat brims, necklines
Tubular / sewn High 1×1 ribbing, cuffs, necklines
Three-needle Low Joining two live edges (shoulder seams)
I-cord Medium Decorative rounded edges on jackets, blankets
Icelandic Medium Shawls, scarves, garter fabrics
Picot Medium Decorative feminine edges on shawls, baby knits

Stretchy bind off: worked with extra yarn-overs between stitches (Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind off is the best-known version). It gives the edge far more give than the standard method. Use it wherever the edge must expand and recover: sock cuffs, hat brims, top-down necklines and mitten cuffs. → guide

Tubular (sewn) bind off: worked with a tapestry needle rather than by lifting stitches over. It creates a rounded, seamless-looking edge that continues out of 1×1 ribbing, the finish you see on shop-bought knitwear. It is slower than other methods, but the best choice for ribbed cuffs and necklines. → guide

Three-needle bind off: binds off two sets of live stitches together, joining them as it goes. It is a seam and a bind off in one. The usual use is shoulder seams. It is faster and neater than binding off both pieces and sewing them. It needs the same number of stitches on each needle. → guide

I-cord bind off: wraps the edge in a small knitted tube, giving a clean, rounded border. Use it where the edge itself is a design feature: jacket fronts, blanket borders, bag openings. It uses noticeably more yarn and time. → guide

Icelandic bind off: a traditional method that is faster than most decorative options and gives a slightly elastic, chain-like edge. Often used for shawls, scarves and garter-stitch pieces where the standard bind off would look tight and thin. → guide

Picot bind off: adds small points or bumps along the edge by casting on and binding off a couple of extra stitches at intervals. It is purely decorative and suits shawl edges, baby garments and feminine hems. → guide

Rule of thumb: if the edge must stretch, pick stretchy or tubular. If it joins another piece, use three-needle. If the edge is on show, use i-cord, Icelandic or picot. Otherwise the standard bind off is enough.

Frequently asked questions

What does bind off mean in knitting?

Binding off secures the active ("live") stitches at the end of your knitting so the fabric will not unravel when you remove it from the needle. In the UK it is called casting off.

Is bind off the same as cast off?

Yes. "Bind off" is the US term and "cast off" is the UK term for the identical technique.

How do I bind off without it being too tight?

Work the bind-off row at a relaxed tension, or switch to a needle one or two sizes larger for that row only. For edges that need to stretch, use a dedicated stretchy bind off.

Which bind off should I use for a sock or hat?

A stretchy bind off, so the cuff or brim can stretch over a foot or head without snapping the edge. The standard bind off is too firm there.

What is the stretchiest bind off?

Jeny's surprisingly stretchy bind off is generally considered the stretchiest all-purpose method. The tubular (sewn) bind off is the stretchiest-looking finish specifically for 1×1 ribbing.

How much yarn do I need to leave when binding off?

Leave a tail of about 15 cm (6 in) so you have enough to pull through the final stitch and weave in securely.

Julia Wallin
About the author
Julia Wallin

Co-founder and editor of Knyt. Avid knitter!

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